Rose Water House * RestlessSleepers FRS

For Restless Sleepers FRS

Francesca Ruffini continues exploring expression and beauty in her creative line F.R.S For Restless Sleepers. The pajamas are the focus of F.R.S's research, this time the versatility and selection of heavy and quilted fabrics make them suitable for daytime wear. Freedom of form plays through the array of different matchings, widths, lines and proportions. The bottoms are tapered and fitted, or bell-bottom out, or cut off at the knee, or reveal the entire ankle. The tops close with small loops and knots inspired by Chinese designs. The pajamas are reminiscent of sophisticated nighttime scenes from two of Wong Kar-wai's cult films, "In the Mood for Love" and "2046". The tuxedo-pajamas, in black silk, bring to mind a feminine tuxedo. Mysterious and provocative with their shiny lapels and obsidian satin piping, they emanate sensuality. As always, silk from the best weaving mills in Como characterizes the collection's leitmotiv. There are twills and cloquées, Jacquard lamé, light opulent velvets finely hemmed and embroidered, all created exclusively for F.R.S The palettes are refined, rich and tonal. Greens - ranging from emerald, leaf, tourmaline and peridot - and golds, midnight blues, ocher and mustard seed yellows intertwine with a few dashes of red, spanning from vivid shades of crimson and scarlet, or when coupled with black, to bordeaux and mysterious Oriental "Sang de boeuf". The palette is enriched by touches of bronze, and the classic contrast of black and white. The evocative patterns characterize and define the gentle geometric shapes, including variations of dressing gown and tunic-caftan themes. The floral motifs are minute and graceful, as are the animal prints, spotted and striped, which are both synthetic and abstract. Leaves from exotic plants intermingle with fallen autumn leaves. Sinuous vegetable vines twist like galaxies in a charcoal sky. There are bees and dragonflies in flight, lucky scarabs and surprising jewel motifs with a personal touch: a fun narrative twist. Stripes and dynamic pulsating segments recall the 1920s painter Sonia Delaunay. All come together in a journey through the emblematic designs of Native American textiles, with ethnic matrices transformed into timeless aesthetics on silk.